Sustainability Pulse #23
Sustainability Trends & News Worth Exploring and interview with Erin Doherty, creator of up cycled lingerie brand, Applause Lingerie — January 30th, 2022
This year, Lenzing's flagship textile brand, TENCEL™, celebrates three decades of sustainable fibre innovation.
Since 1992, the TENCEL™brand has empowered companies to adopt more eco-friendly practices across the textile value chain.
Addressing market needs for circular economy solutions and reinforcing Lenzing's commitment to achieving net-zero emissions by 2050
Key milestones achieved since launching one year ago with an overwhelming response from global fashion brands including JACK & JONES using carbon-zero TENCEL™ branded lyocell fibers in its latest jeans range
Continue to gain momentum from mill partners around the world to innovate raw material usage further
Does Sustainable Fashion Have A Future In Pakistan?
"It's good to see more local brands promoting sustainability. However, only a few move beyond using sustainability as a marketing gimmick, and hardly any of them can implement a completely sustainable model. Sustainability is often limited to the final product alone – in fact, and it is completely overlooked when it comes to production and sustainability."
BIOMIMICRY: How Nature Influences Innovation
The definition of biomimicry is the act of using nature as a model for human inventions.
It is a technological-oriented approach focused on putting nature's lessons into practice. To see nature as a model, study it and use it as inspiration for designing and solving complex human problems.
A few other examples of biomimicry is when umbrellas were invented. The story follows: the first Chinese umbrellas were invented 2,000 years ago when children were spotted using lotus leaves to shield themselves from the rain. The function and form of the lotus leaf were mimicked, and umbrellas were created out of silk, in fact.
The use of biomimicry has been in use for centuries, often in the most renowned architectural marvels. However, biomimetic architecture is beyond utilizing nature as inspiration for the aesthetic components of built form but it seeks to use nature to solve problems of the building's functioning.
10 Denim Industry Experts on the Highs, Lows And Predictions For 2022
"2022 is a time to address consumerism, educate, [and] collaborate, and retailers need to stop pretending they are genuinely delivering solutions when many decision makers barely understand how to wash a pair of jeans," said Salli Deighton, responsible denim development consultant.
Experts from across the denim industry specializing in circularity and sustainability, trends and design and events share their lessons in 2021 and what the blue world has to look forward to in 2022.
How did the denim industry fare in 2021 compare to 2020?
Fabio Adami Dalla Val, Denim Première Vision show manager: Looking at the production side of the value chain, 2020 wasn't so bad for many countries despite the lockdown period. The start of 2021 was hopeful, but all the problems we face now show that the difficulties aren't finished yet, and all the players need to find common solutions. Effects of the pandemic will impact our lives for a long time from every perspective, but I feel positivity in the people of the denim industry.
13 Reasons Why Alpaca Wool Is Sustainable
Alpaca wool is the cashmere, the new merino, the new sustainable fabric. Basically, everyone is hyping up alpaca wool. But why? What are the reasons that alpaca wool is considered sustainable?
It is biodegradable
When a material is biodegradable, it means that nature itself can break it down and decompose it. Alpaca wool is biodegradable, which means that it won't contribute to textile waste.
It comes in many natural colors
When materials come in a wide range of natural colors, it means that less dyes are needed to dye the textile. Alpaca wool comes in 22 natural colors, which means that there are many shades to choose from!
It is made directly from natural fibers
Natural fibers are generally better for the environment than synthetic fibers because their production process is less chemical. Alpaca wool is such a natural fiber that requires minimal chemicals during the production process.
The Myth of Sustainable Fashion
Few industries tout their sustainability credentials more forcefully than the fashion industry. But the sad truth is that despite high-profile attempts at innovation, it's failed to reduce its planetary impact in the past 25 years.
Most items are still produced using non-biodegradable petroleum-based synthetics and end up in a landfill. So what can be done? New ESG strategies such as bio-based materials, recycling, and "rent-the-runway" concepts have failed. Instead, we must stop thinking about sustainability as existing on a spectrum.
Less unstainable is not sustainable. And governments need to step in to force companies to pay for their negative impact on the planet. The idea of "win-win" and market-based solutions has failed even in one of the most "progressive" industries.
Catching up with Erin, the creative mind behind Applause Lingerie, an up-cycled lingerie brand based in Tucson, Arizona.
Aastha: What prompted you to start 'Applause Lingerie'?
Erin: I started with an assignment to collaborate with Goodwill to convert existing materials into something new.
So I decided to take a basketball jersey, make it the base for an underwire bra, and turn it into a panty set.
What was interesting to me was taking something of little value and revamping it into something totally different with an added layer of artistic value. This transformation makes it even more special. If I want to start a lingerie brand, then this is the direction o want to take as there are too many clothes already out there in the world. If I could take old garments and revamp and recreate their value, that could start a new market. Bras and other types of temporary clothing wear out easily and have to be bought again. Why not recreate them using existing garments?
Aastha: What are some of the problems in the sustainable industry at the moment?
Erin: Well, one of the contentious points could be whether materials made from recycled plastics is really an effective way to be sustainable? Another hard area would be whether it is ok to claim that you're a green company if you are using recycled fabrics?
Aastha: Do you only use upcycling as a means of recreating these garments?
Erin: I have to use some new fabrics and fastenings in addition to upcying fabrics so that the garment doesn't fall apart.
Aastha: What are the challenges you face with your business model?
Erin: I have to carefully source the upcycled fabrics and sort through a heap of old materials for the right fabric which can be a challenging process. It could be easier to create a one-off garment design out of an upcycled material, but how do you do that over and over again?
Upcycled lingerie is definitely more challenging than upcycled regular clothes. For example, if I have to use lace for my bras, I have to make sure that the stretch factor of existing material is correct for my design.
Aastha: How do you manage these complexities?
Erin: I tell my customers that I'm selling this set of cotton panties in 4 different colours. However, I may not have the exact shade of colour every time. I am definitely working within the outer parameters of the standard business model, which is uniform, fast, efficient and promising the same product iteration. I am definitely adding a layer of creativity, complexity and uniqueness to each product I ship and my business model.
I'd love to be a brand that has consistent sales and something that local customers enjoy.
Aastha: What is the future of upcycled lingerie?
Erin: I believe that people who make unique custom designs could use this model. In terms of a large business, there could be collaborations with existing thrift stores where brands could get their sourcing. It could be a more wholesale situation where everyone knows what materials are required instead of putting them on the racks. If thrift stores could set aside some clothes for upcycled brands, brands could shop within those parameters.
It's going to be much easier just buying recycled materials for an item as one would already know the characteristics of that material. This model does require much more time commitment. But at the end of the day, it's more effective.
We could definitely use professionals who teach traditional lingerie making classes to include tutorials for upcycling existing materials into lingerie.
P.S. Want to get more out of your downtime?