Sustainability Pulse #96
Sustainability Trends & News Worth Exploring — September 27, 2024
Welcome to this week's edition of Sustainability Pulse! Climate Week 2024 has wrapped up, and what a whirlwind of inspiring discussions it has been.
Two events stood out for me: first, Pandora’s announcement that they’ve transitioned to using 100% recycled materials for their jewelry, a bold step towards a more sustainable future.
Secondly, the thought-provoking panel at NeueHouse, CONSCIOUS IS THE NEW COOL: The Future of Sustainable Fashion. Leaders across the industry highlighted the role of next-gen materials and how values are the new social currency driving systemic change in fashion.
The key takeaway? Buying less but of better quality will lead the charge. Consumers are now more than ever co-creators in this movement, with every purchase shaping the future of sustainability.
Let’s dive into this week’s highlights and explore more industry insights!
Stay conscious and curious, Vera.
In this issue:
Pandora’s commitment to recycled materials
The hidden costs of Fashion Week for emerging designers
Fashion's future with compostable mushroom leather
And much more!
The hidden costs of Fashion Week: A barrier for young designers
For established luxury houses, these costs are often absorbed as part of substantial marketing budgets, paling in comparison to the extravagant spectacles mounted by industry titans like Burberry and Tommy Hilfiger, who invest millions in lavish productions to satisfy customers' growing appetite for 'fashiontainment' – immersive experiences that transcend mere clothing displays.
Pandora now crafts its jewellery with 100% recycled silver and gold
Following transforming its entire precious metals supply, Pandora is now crafting all jewellery with 100% recycled silver and gold. By using recycled silver and gold instead of newly mined metals, Pandora avoids 58,000 tons CO2 per year.
Haelixa, OVS extend supply chain traceability partnership
Traceability solution Haelixa and Italian fashion brand OVS are partnering for a second year to mark and trace cotton grown in Italy and ensure trust throughout the supply chain.
SanMar joins bluesign, reinforces sustainability commitment
US wholesale apparel supplier SanMar Corporation has joined bluesign as a system partner.
LVMH's Dior, Giorgio Armani, other luxury brands inspotlight over workshop conditions
LVMH's Dior and Giorgio Armani are among luxury brands exposed over sweatshop-like conditions for migrant workers in Italian workshops
US urged to continue funding ILO Better Work initiative in Jordan
Global fashion brands, the American Apparel and Footwear Association (AAFA) and Fair Labor Association (FLA) have urged the US government to extend funding for the ILO's Better Work programme in Jordan beyond its current 2027 end date.
Inside Luxury’s Italian Sweatshops Problem
An Italian probe linking luxury labels, including Dior and Armani, to labor exploitation—with the supply chains of up to a dozen more brands under the microscope—has exposed a seedy practice deeply embedded in the luxury system, a BoF investigation has found. The probe has created an unpredictable PR crisis at a precarious time for the sector.
Fashion's future lies in compostable mushroom leather
Romanian artisans and a South Carolina biotech company, MycoWorks, are innovating with mushroom-based textiles, offering an eco-friendly alternative to traditional leather.
MycoWorks' Reishi material is crafted from mycelium and agricultural waste, providing a sustainable and biodegradable option for fashion items like designer bags and upscale pillows.
Advances in biotech allow for the growth of mycelium in controlled environments, presenting a viable, ethical, and environmentally sustainable alternative to animal leather.
Mulberry achieves B Corp certification
Luxury heritage brand Mulberry is the latest British fashion company to achieve B Corp certification. Mulberry scored 87.1, above the B Corp requirement pass mark and ahead of the industry standard of 80.9.
How extended producer responsibility policy can tackle textile waste
Extended Producer Responsibility policy can unite the apparel industry and spur collective action to address textile waste.
New Tamil Nadu textile policy to be aligned with Tirupur's value-chain primacy
The Principal Secretary, accompanied by District Collector T. Christuraj, opened the 51st India International Knit Fair, a three-day event organised jointly by the Indian Knit Fair Association (IKFA) and the Apparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC) under the theme Preserving Our Planet through Innovation and Circularity.
The staggering water consumption of fast fashion
According to Oxfam and the World Bank, the global fashion industry consumes 93 billion cubic metres of water per year—equivalent to 37 million Olympic-sized swimming pools.
The global fashion industry is responsible for 8-10% of worldwide emissions, according to the UN - more than the aviation and shipping industries combined.
Explainer: Is convenience shopping fuelling fashion over-consumption?
From Tik Tok Shop to Netflix Shop the idea that you can click to purchase what you see your favourite celebrities in has on the one hand made fashion more accessible than ever, but on the other, opened doors to a level of convenience that is driving a culture of overconsumption with significant environmental impacts.
COP29 is looming, how will fashion fare?
As COP29 nears, fashion industry executives explore the progress the sector is making on reaching its climate commitments.
Five reasons fashion brands should back Next Gen materials
Global fashion brands are under increasing pressure to switch to sustainable sourcing of fibres and materials, with Next Gen materials promising to be the solution they need.
Will polyester continue to outperform cotton?
Man-made polyester remains the biggest fiber in the apparel market, and its market share continues to grow. However, given the ongoing focus on sustainability, could its natural competitor, cotton, make a comeback in the future?
Why Asos turned down Shein's Topshop bid
As reports suggest Asos rejected a joint £215.5m ($281.7m) offer for the Topshop brand from Singapore-headquartered Shein and Authentic Brands Group (ABG) in favour of a lower bid from investor group Heartland, Just Style hears how the choice "fits Asos' strategy".
Is sustainability in style at New York & London Fashion Week?
At this season's highly anticipated New York and London Fashion Weeks, the runways will featurewe're a blend of luxury, fast, and eco-conscious fashion.
At NYFW, Models Push Governor to Sign Fashion Workers Act into Law
The Model Alliance delivered hundreds of letters to New York Governor Kathy Hochul’s office Tuesday morning, calling on her to sign the bill regulating management agencies and protecting models and other professionals from exploitation.
Revealed: Far higher pesticide residues allowed on food since Brexit
Pan UK conducted the analysis ofutive (HSE), which regulates pesticides in the UK. T MRLs using data from the Health and Safety Exeche details were shared with the Guardian. In one example, MRLs for avocados and pomegranates for the insecticide bifenthrin, a hormone disruptor, were raised 50 times. Pesticides are banned in both the UK and EU but not in many importing countries.
Top Consumer Fashion Trends for 2025
2025 is shaping up to be a groundbreaking year in fashion, where consumer preferences are steering the industry toward unprecedented innovation and creativity. The upcoming retail trends reflect a growing desire for individuality, sustainability, and technological integration, as fashion becomes a medium of both personal expression and global impact.
Can anything slow fast fashion down? Lawmakers are giving it a go
The business model has been popular among shoppers and brands, which keep their inventories low, try to predict what customers want, and use highly flexible supply chains for quick turnaround. The wildly successful Chinese e-commerce platforms Shein and Temu epitomize the latest iterations.
H&M's First Elevated Collection Is Disappointing
H&M just released its first elevated collection as it rebrands to target the middle-tier market of the fashion industry. While the designs have improved for this new collection, there are only a few elevated pieces, and none of them are available to purchase online yet. This overhaul feels a bit incomplete, but what are your thoughts?
Shein says customers choose their platform for unique items, variety
A majority of respondents to a company survey said they “should be able to buy clothes that make them feel good,” even without “a lot of money.”
Woolmark urges fashion consumers to wear wool not waste
Industry certification company Woolmark has launched a campaign for end consumers to promote wool's natural, renewable, and biodegradable benefits and its status as the world's most recycled apparel fibre.
Contrary to promises, major fashion brands are actually using more synthetic fabrics
NGO Changing Markets Foundation has come to a sobering conclusion: major fashion brands have started using more synthetic materials, not less. This is evident from a survey of 50 fashion brands.
Dior Taps Miu Miu CEO Benedetta Petruzzo as Managing Director
The executive oversaw a period of explosive growth at Prada-owned Miu Miu.
Shein launches €10m ‘Designer Incubator’ programme in Europe
Ultra-fast fashion retailer Shein has launched a talent development programme of €10m ($13.26m) to support 250 emerging European designers. (Greenwashing?)
Fashion Nova: This fast fashion giant could teach a class on social media marketing
Climate 100 List: Livia Firth’s long fight against fast fashion. ‘Once you see that, you can never turn away’
The sustainability expert and founder of the Green Carpet Challenge tells The Independent about the moment which ‘changed everything’
Snap Launches Latest AR Glasses, And New US Shipping Rules To Impact E-Commerce Platforms
Snap Inc. has launched its new subscription-based, developer-focused augmented reality glasses, betting on increased interest in AR technology over the next decade. Meanwhile, new US trade legislation could indirectly shift consumer behaviour towards fast fashion and overconsumption.
Podcast: Talking Circularity, Innovation, and Save Your Wardrobe’s Sustainable Vision for Fashion
The Interline welcomes the Founder and CEO of Save Your Wardrobe about driving systemic change in the fashion industry through their solution for brands, local businesses, and consumers.
The End of Impulse Buying: Tech’s Impact on Underconsumption Core
TikTok has been the source of many of the world’s most fierce trends in recent years, and as a result, it’s started to influence and shape our lifestyle habits, too. One example is the ‘underconsumption core’—the premise is a shift in mindset to adopt a ‘less is more’ approach to spending. For years, fashion has been under scrutiny for its environmental impact, questionable labor practices and overproduction rates—could this trend be the start of a shift in the opposite direction?
Is Bangladesh ready for Digital Product Passport?
Ever heard of a passport for products? The European Union has introduced the Digital Product Passport (DPP), a green stamp for sustainability. The DPP is a mandatory electronic record, expected to be fully required by 2030, designed under the EU Green Deal legislation. It’s part of the EU Strategy for Sustainable Textiles and Eco-design under the European Commission’s Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation.
Weaving Elegance With Intelligence: How Luxury Brands Are Embracing AI
The world of luxury is built on a foundation of meticulous craftsmanship and attention to detail. AI enters this world not as a disruptor but as an enhancer of creativity and precision. It’s a tool that complements the human touch, offering insights and capabilities that extend traditional luxury's boundaries.
Clothes piling up in your closet? A landmark California bill would mandate brands recycle them
If passed, Californians can bring unwanted and damaged apparel and household textiles to thrift stores, charities, and other collection sites throughout the state.
Oslo positions itself as a circular fashion city
Overshadowed by Copenhagen, Oslo is emerging as a city for circular fashion, focused on sustainable textile industry – against the backdrop of Norway’s dependence on oil and gas
TELFAR Debuts Its First Real Leather Bag: The Carry
TELFAR, the brand known for its iconic vegan leather totes, has just elevated its game by launching its first-ever real leather bag. Introducing “The Carry,” TELFAR continues to blur the lines of traditional luxury with this stunning new release.
“We set the standard”: Steve Collier – Creative Director at Brand Alliance – talks innovation in licensed fashion
Steve Collier – Creative Director at Brand Alliance – on how working across licensed and non-licensed ranges fuels creativity.
Antitrust probes Shein over 'misleading promotional messages
The Italian Antitrust Authority said Wednesday that it has opened an investigation into online retailer Shein over potentially misleading promotional messages on its Italian website.
Vera
I really hope you're enjoying The Sustainability Pulse, my weekly newsletter looking at sustainability in the fashion industry. If you find the tips and insights useful, please share these articles to help spread the word.
While we're at it, let's make sure these are hitting your primary inbox.
Gmail users: Move this email to your Primary Tab (drag-and-drop on Desktop, three dots on Mobile) and add me, sustainabilityp@substack.com, to your contacts.
Apple mail users: Tap on the email address at the top of this message and select "Add to VIPs."
Using Outlook, Yahoo, Hotmail, or something else? Find instructions here.
Taking a few minutes to do this will ensure you always take advantage of greatness.
Let's do this!
- Vera
P.S. Is there something on your mind… a burning question about fashion, sustainability, happiness, mindset, or consumer behavior?
Please reply to this email; I might answer you in an upcoming newsletter.